Archive for the ‘Gardening’ Category

Elegant Vegetable Container Gardening

Wednesday, August 8th, 2012

Peppers and Tomatoes in Large Pots

Judy’s good friend Dorothy Davenport lives in a condo but that doesn’t keep her from growing a lot of her own food.

Carrots, Chard and Zinnias

Using pots, containers and hanging baskets, Dorothy grows a lot of different vegetables while keeping everything looking pretty by inter-planting colorful flowers.

Beans on a Rail

Dorothy makes excellent use of space as you can see by her use of a porch rail to mount a container of green beans.

Tomatoes in Containers

Large containers yield lots of tomatoes.

Tomatoes in a Hanging Basket

Decorative and functional!

Eggplant and Tomatoes

A couple eggplants can deliver a lot of fruit.

Condo Garden Harvest

Here’s a colorful, nutritious and delicious harvest. Dorothy’s condo garden shows that just because you don’t have a yard doesn’t mean you can’t grow a good amount of your own food.

Worm Free Cabbage Crops? Check out Neem Oil

Monday, August 6th, 2012

Cabbage

I’ve done battle with the caterpillars of the small white and yellow cabbage butterflies for as long as I’ve gardened. The most destructive caterpillar, known as the Imported Cabbage Worm, is from a white butterfly native to Europe called the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae). These insects have only been in North America since the 1860′s, but they like it a lot on this side of the ocean and are a truly destructive pest.

The small green caterpillars of this butterfly will decimate unprotected cole crops. Their presence is very easy to see. They eat huge holes in the leaves of the brasiccas, they like to burrow into the center core of cabbages, and they leave trails and piles of frass wherever they occur.

A lot of gardeners use BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) as an organic control. BT is widely used but I’ve left it alone mainly because of issues relating to its use in genetic engineering and several other possible problems, an overview of which you can read about here:

My best success has been using floating row covers of agricultural fabric. The row covers have some problems, however. The fabric tears easily and the moths find their way into and under the covers through the holes and any edges that might not be secured closely to the ground. The covers are a pain to maintain and keep in place. And it gets quite a bit hotter and more humid under the row covers than in the open air. Brassicas prefer it cooler and drier.

Neem Oil

Then we found neem. I’d heard about neem oil over the years. Three years ago at a Garden Writers Conference in Oklahoma City, Geoff and I attended a presentation where the origins and insecticidal properties of this natural product were explained in depth. And two years ago, at the MOSES Organic Farming Conference in La Crosse, Wisconsin, Geoff met Usha Rao of The Ahimsa Alternative, and we obtained a supply of neem oil to test in our own gardens.

Neem oil is a vegetable oil pressed out of the fruit and seeds of the neem tree, Azadirachta indica, a fast growing tree of the mahogany family that is farmed in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, as well as throughout a lot of Africa. All parts of the tree have useful properties and many people in India regard the tree as sacred. Within the oil is an active ingredient Azadirachtin, which disrupts the digestive and molting processes of insects that feed on leaves where the oil is present and they eventually die after ingesting the neem.

I’m using a mixture of one tablespoon neem oil, 3/4 tablespoon of liquid horticultural soap, and one tablespoon of seaweed extract in a gallon of water. The seaweed is there to help the neem mix better with the water and stick better to the plant leaves. And it also has its own beneficial properties in the foliar feeding of plants. After the initial spray, I spray after rains or after I have to water the plants. I’m presuming rains and watering may wash away the neem’s effectiveness. The solution needs be thoroughly mixed. Concentrated neem oil can burn plant leaves, and the neem oil will coagulate in colder water.

Also, while generally the neem is safe in use around beneficial insects, you should not spray it directly on them, so avoid spraying it when insects are pollinating squash flowers, for example.

Broccoli

I am happy to report that the results appear to be excellent. I’ve got uncovered brassicas of all types almost totally free of insect damage and I’m pretty sure I’ll get to harvest all without any major insect losses. It’s interesting, because the butterflies are present, they lay their eggs, the eggs hatch, but then the life cycle ends soon after the caterpillars start feeding.

Neem is supposed to be an all-around useful insecticide, but I haven’t figured out how to make it truly work well on all my cucurbits. It appears to be quite effective against squash bugs, but I lost several plants to vine borers, which I can understand, as the vine borer caterpillar is protected inside the stem of the plant. The neem spray seemed to do nothing to protect against early damage from cucumber beetles, which destroyed several melon and squash plants almost as soon as I transplanted the seedlings into the beds.

Neem seems to be a very useful approach to a lot of garden pests, however, and the upside is that it is very low in toxicity and potential environmental concerns. I’m going to keep working with it. If it only gave me good, worm-free cole crops, it would be well worth its cost.

Shiitake Mushrooms - A Missed Opportunity

Sunday, August 5th, 2012

 

Overripe Shiitake Mushrooms

I missed one of the largest flushes of mushrooms I’ve ever had by three or four days. I didn’t even think to be checking for them in our summer heat and it was just chance that I looked over in the woods, today, to find these. They are on three year old logs, which is all the more surprising.

We’ll see if we can dry a lot of them. I think we can, but many are spent and black. Too bad, the fresh shiitake are one our favorite crops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Preparing for My Fall Garden in Austin

Thursday, July 26th, 2012

I garden year round in Austin, so there is no point at which I “put the garden to bed”, as is often done in more Northern climates. I never get to start with a clean slate for the next year’s season. At any given time in my garden I’ll have recently planted sections that are often still months away from harvest, sections in peak production, sections that are still producing but well past their peak, and sections that need to be removed. During peak planting times, as in early September, the challenge for me is figuring out where I can fit new plantings into this patchwork while still maintaining some semblance of crop rotation.

I’ve come up with a few techniques to make this easier:

  • Start kohlrabi, beets, broccoli raab and Chinese broccoli indoors now in late July so that they have 4-6 weeks before transplanting to garden in September.
  • Although I consider the first two weeks of September prime planting time for most of my fall crops, I actually need to plant pole beans in late August so they have time to mature before the first fall frost. Our average frost date is November 15, although in my part of Austin it’s usually December before the first frost. I’ll use the same trellises that I used for my early summer tomatoes for these beans.
  • Some of the spring crops are done and ready to be pulled out. Even though I never put the entire garden to rest at one time, I can prepare parts of the garden now and use burlap mulch to keep the soil soft and the weeds out while awaiting the better planting dates.
  • Some of my summer crops like sweet potatoes and okra will be growing right up to the frost. I might wait until late January to re-plant these beds, but I can also start cold hardy greens like mustard and spinach indoors in late September to be planted in November.
  • I’ve gotten excellent results from direct seeding cool season greens mixes in early September. As the fall progresses and temperatures change, different plants within the mix mature at different times. Lettuces usually peak earlier and arugula peaks later, with mustard greens in between.

During peak planting times like early September, it would be ideal for me to drop everything else and spend two weeks exclusively in the garden. Since that’s not an option right now, planning and preparation helps me spread the work out and still get everything in the ground.

I’m still harvesting a few sun gold tomatoes, but the rest of the tomatoes that I planted in March have finished producing and need to be removed to make way for fall pole beans.

I like growing okra because it hits stride in the late summer heat when many other crops have stopped producing. I won’t remove it until the first frost, so it overlaps with the fall garden.

K is for Kohlrabi Pancakes

Tuesday, July 24th, 2012

Kossak Kohlrabi

Kohlrabi is one of our favorite crunchy summertime veggies. We like it best when peeled, sliced and sprinkled lightly with salt. It has a mild cabbage flavor with a turnip-like texture.

Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea (gongylodes group)) is best picked when less than tennis ball size because it can tend to get woody or fibrous in the middle. We are trying a new larger variety this year, Kossak, a hybrid from Johnny’s Selected Seeds, that is not supposed to get fibrous and is also a storage kohlrabi. Optimal/maximum size for harvesting is 8”. We’ll let you know if it works for us, though I doubt that they will last long enough to get into storage!

Kohlrabi Pancakes

Kohlrabies also make great pancakes similar to potato pancakes but more delicately flavored.

Try this recipe:

2 cups peeled and shredded kohlrabi

¼ cup flour

1 egg

¼ tsp. salt

Olive oil for frying

Sprinkle flour and salt over shredded kohlrabi and stir in so there are no lumps. Add 1 beaten egg and mix well.

Preheat cast iron frying pan until medium hot. Add 2 to 3 Tbl. oil to pan. Form pancakes in pan with 2 Tbl. kohlrabi mixture & flatten. Fry for 2 minutes on each side until browned. Makes about 8 or 9 pancakes. They are delicious with just salt & pepper but feel free to experiment with your favorite herbs.

Anticipating the Main Harvest

Tuesday, July 24th, 2012

Here Come the Tomatoes

With this year’s warm weather, we’ll be picking things from the garden a lot earlier than most years. I’m often late getting things started, but I did a good job of getting the tomatoes, peppers, and cole crops into the ground before the end of May. The early start coupled with the hot weather is giving us veggies in July that we normally don’t start harvesting until August. All in all, it appears we will have a good harvest as we go into late summer and fall.

Hot Peppers

This small bed holds most of the hot peppers. In the foreground are Serranos and behind them are cayennes and some various Asian hot peppers. Judy likes to freeze Serrano peppers. She should have plenty. The cayennes are exceptionally large this year and the pepper plants, in general, are taller than what I usually get.

Sweet Peppers

In front of the asparagus is my second pepper bed. The small plants in front are Poblanos. They are loaded with fruit. The rest of the bed contains various sweet peppers. I have a lot of Nardellos, the American-Italian heirloom that we like a lot. Those too are very heavy with peppers. Behind and to the right of the peppers are two potato beds, one red and one yellow. Both are doing well. I’ve already snitched a few red ones.

Sweet Potatoes

The sweet potatoes are loving the heat. I can’t see what’s going on down below the vines, but I’m hoping for the best. I’ve been covering the vines with ag fabric to keep the deer from munching on them. The deer love sweet potato leaves.

Sweet Corn

We ate our first sweet corn, yesterday, I only have one bed this year. Most years I get two beds planted. I’m inter-planting the corn with two heirloom pole beans that have traditionally been grown using corn stalks for trellises. One bean is called Turkey Craw, the other is Missouri Wonder. The beans in the corn have a long way to go, but they look just fine.

Leeks, Pole Beans, Tomatoes, and Onions

Here is my main bean crop, with leeks in the bed to the left, tomatoes, tomatillos, and eggplants in the bed to the right of the beans, and onions to right of the tomatoes. You can see another bed of tomatoes in the back right and in front of those are two blue barrel rings holding some fingerling potatoes which I just planted. It’s my plan to keep adding soil to the rings as the potatoes grow to try to get a larger yield. I haven’t done this before, so we’ll have to see if it works.

The pole beans in the front of the picture are trellised onto four tripods. Behind them in the same bed are bush beans. They are just flowering but I expect good production. Last year we had a similar size set up that got somewhat eaten by deer and we still had a huge harvest. I expect a lot more beans this year. We are getting Japanese beetles in the beans, but I’m able to keep ahead of much damage by cleaning off the beetles using my funnel trap, which you can read about here.

Ripening Egg Plants

I went overboard with the eggplants, I just didn’t have the heart to cull out the nice seedling starts, so we have 16 eggplants. I normally grow four to six. They are looking great. We’re trying to figure out the best way to freeze them – any suggestions?

Three Cabbages

Here are three good looking cabbages in one of two beds dedicated to cole crops. The other bed is under ag fabric. Most of this bed was used to grow kohlrabi and we’ve already harvested about half the planting. Judy talks about using kohlrabi in her recipe post. I’ve been spraying my coles with a neem oil, soap, and seaweed mixture and that seems to have really made a huge difference on damage from cabbage moths. The moth eggs hatch but the caterpillars die when they eat leaves containing neem oil. While the neem spray hasn’t done much for the squash it seems very effective in the coles.

Zucchini #2

Here is our second zucchini. We picked the first, yesterday. We’ll have lots, I’ve got five healthy plants. The squash, melons, cukes, and zukes all got a late start. While the zucchini are doing well I’m really having some major problems both with cucumber beetles and squash vine borers. I’m definitely going to lose a few squash and melon plants. I always tell people starting out in gardening to grow a lot of different stuff. Some will always succeed and even if you lose an entire crop of one vegetable you’ll still have plenty of the others.

Mammoth Sunflowers

These Mammoth Sunflowers are already ten feet tall and they aren’t done growing. Their stalks are like tree trunks.

Unfortunately, this could be a year without basic root crops. No carrots or beets in the ground, yet. It’s not too late for either for a fall crop if I can get to it, but in any case, we’ll get plenty from the garden, this year.

Overhead Irrigation System for a Backyard Garden

Wednesday, July 4th, 2012

Watering the Garden

We have not had significant rainfall for six weeks. I was told that June was the driest recorded here since they started keeping records. Today and tomorrow will be among the two hottest days in south central Wisconsin since the weather service started logging meteorological data. 103 was reported as a high today, highest ever for July. The all-time high temperature record here was 104 in August of 1988. Tomorrow may be hotter yet.

In most of the 26 years I’ve lived here, I’ve not had to worry much about watering my garden. Rain just fell with enough regularity to count on. Not every year, for sure, but mostly the rain has been there when we needed it.

This year is different. Hotter and drier than anything we’ve ever seen. So I have no choice but to water regularly. I’m quite happy with this simple system I use to get water down pretty much where I want it.

Overhead Irrigation System

Components, in addition to hoses with quick-connects, are a plastic milk crate, an oscillating sprinkler, and metal spring clamps. I got my sprinkler at my local Ace Hardware (Ace is the place!). I really like the design of the new oscillating sprinklers. Precise control of the arm movement is super easy. The newer models have thumb tabs to control the arm movement and one can lay down a water pattern with precision.

I’m watering frequently and the garden is looking good. It’s easy for plants get stressed in these unusual weather conditions, but so far, with my slick overhead irrigation system, all is well in our garden.

 

 

 

 

Double Amaranth Bolita Bean Soup

Monday, June 25th, 2012

I grew bolita beans a couple of years ago as a dried bean and had yet to cook them. Last week I made this bolita bean soup with amaranth leaves, amaranth grain (hence double amaranth) and purslane.

The finished soup, ready to eat.

  • 1 cup dry bolita beans, soaked overnight
  • 3/4 cup amaranth grain
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2-3 garlic cloves
  • cumin
  • chopped hot peppers to taste
  • veggie broth
  • amaranth leaves
  • purslane leaves and upper stems

Sauté the onions, garlic and hot peppers in olive oil. Add veggie stock. Add beans, amaranth grain and cumin. Bring to a boil then simmer until beans are fully cooked (about an hour).

Add the amaranth leaves and purslane, cook a few more minutes and serve.

Bolita beans are a New Mexico variety. I got my original seeds from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. For some reason I thought that they were a bush bean, but they turned out to be pole beans and vined over two garden beds. I actually got two crops of these beans as quite a few pods shattered and re-seeded.

Amaranth Leaves

I grew two varieties of amaranth, Amaranthus spp., this year, one from Botanical Interests called Edible Red Leaf and another from Kitazawa Seed Company called All Red Leaf. All Red Leaf was indeed more red than the former.

I did not harvest amaranth seeds, only the leaves. I picked up the grain from my local food co-op. Amaranth seeds are not a true grain and are gluten free. The seeds are like quinoa but smaller. They are also harder than quinoa and take longer to cook. That’s why I put them into the soup at the same time as the beans.

Purlsane, one the the greens still growing as temperatures surpass 100F.

Purlsane, Portulaca oleracea, is known as verdolaga in Mexico. I’m growing a variety from Bountiful Gardens that has a more upright stem than the kind often found as a garden weed.

Purslane may be eaten raw as well and has a slightly tart taste. Amaranth is not as tasty raw and benefits from cooking. Both of these greens made this soup delicious and filling.

Photo Contest Entries

Wednesday, June 20th, 2012

We received a lot of great entries for our photo contest. Thanks to everyone who participated. Here are all of the entries. Click on the smaller images to see the full sized picture and caption.

Paul O'Day with the CobraHead Long Handle. "In one week I've used the CobraHead to weed two planted 1000 sq ft beds, another 1000 sq ft bed that was nothing but weeds and reemerging pasture, tilled 1000 row feet of corn and beans and 20 hills of cucurbits, and converted another 1000 sq ft of pasture to garden space using a shovel to slice the sod and the CobraHead to shake out most of the dirt from the sod chunks. I like the CobraHead for the speed, ease, and versatility. After a days work I'm not tired or sore - it beats everything else!"

Eric Biessman with the CobraHead. Eric says "the CobraHead rocks! From small jobs (like cleaning out my front beds) to huge jobs where I could systematically hit the buck thorn threatening my yard with ease. Huge props!"

Austin gardener Natalina has been teaching her daughter Lola how to garden from an early age.

Wendy Bale wouldn't pose for the picture herself, but says this, "I hurt my back earlier this year, and decided a long handled CobraHead was going to be needed to tend the spring garden. I love it... no bending and stooping to weed.The only thing better than using this tool was conning Mr. Bill into do the weeding for me. It was like Tom Sawyer and that whitewashed fence, I just told him how much fun it was to use and voilé!"

Another shot submitted by Mike Avila. "This is my three year old son who loves to work outside already. Here he is copying my weed removal work with our favorite garden tool.

Shannon McCarthy submitted this tale. "One fine, sunny afternoon I was using my trusty Cobrahead to break up some clay to make room for an herb garden when I encountered a difficult, rotting root. As I began to dig around it to see what I was up against, I suddenly unearthed something... squishy. "Why, what have we here?" I pondered. I looked closer, and what did I behold? THE SINGLE MOST ENORMOUS GRUB I HAVE EVER ENCOUNTERED! It was as big as a (Matchbox) car! Good thing I had my CobraHead for defense! Close Call! Fin."

Chris McDiarmid works as a hand model. She submitted this action shot. "Good tools make gardening so pleasant!"

Chris McDiarmid also submitted this photo of Natalie. "Natalie's first lilac planting. We had a great spring planting day. The Cobrahead fits all size hands!"

Chris McDiarmid says, "These tools go wherever I go in my yard. My favorite tools travel in my wagon from garden bed to garden bed. The CobraHead tools are involved in most of my tasks - the only other tool I take along is a little pruner. Here, my tomatoes got tucked into a shipping crate from a machine at our new business."

From Annie in Austin. "CobraHead Works on Rubber Edging. It's utilitarian rather than beautiful, but black rubber edging is useful for a bed in grass. After buying a yellow-handled Cobrahead in 2006, my husband realized his new tool worked well for getting the edging in place. Today he used this vintage model to reset it."

From Annie in Austin. "Two CobraHeads at the Ready. When the Divas of the Dirt meet each month, our Cobraheads help us weed paths, groom beds & plant new wildflowers. But with 6 Cobraheads at work we've found fun ways to keep track of our tools."

From Marilyn Lohman. "Mom using her CobraHead tools."

Linda Buller sent us this picture of Larry weeding onions. "Larry trying his hand at weeding with the brand new Cobra Head weeder we purchased."

Linda Buller says, "those weeds don't stand a chance! Making short work of the weeds in the sweet corn with our brand new Cobra head weeder! The ONLY snake we allow in our gardens!"

From Patricia Dygulski, "Best Tool for all jobs..Cobrahead. This is my husband Vic preparing to replace separator in patio using the cobrahead to clean out the groove....and a friend using cobrahead to remove overgrown vinca and planting a hosta in its place."

From Michelle Rice, "CobraHead guards the garden. My scarecrow uses the CobraHead to keep the birds from eating the blueberries."

From Jean Marie Randolph, "Cobra Catching Critters. Using cobra tool to keep friendly critters in the garden."

From Shannon Reed, "My Favorite Garden tool. On May 19, 2012 the several members of the Chautauqua County Master Gardeners joined with more than 800 other participants in the city’s annual clean-up day, ‘Hands On Jamestown.’ I can be seen here with other Master Gardeners using my favorite gardening tool, the CobraHead Tool, as we prepare a raised bed planter for new perennials. The Master Gardeners worked with the City Arborist and Parks Department employee to beautify several gardens in the city of Jamestown."

One more picture from Shannon Reed, "Here is another pic of me with my Cobrahead tool."

The final photo from Shannon Reed, "Last photo of me with my Cobrahead tool. This is the 'after the hard work' shot."

From Jennifer Legler, "My husband, Jack, using Cobrahead weeding tool in our Astilbe Garden (Great Falls, VA). My husband says it is the best tool ever for yard work. Glad I bought it at the Philadelphia Flower Show."

Vicki Sappington says, "Blue and I are weeding the weeds in my petunia patch with my cobra head."

From Kathy Hanes, "Digging at the beach. We work hard in the gardens at home so when we need a break, we go to the beach with our CobraHead for a day of sun, surf, & digging in the sand."

Kelly Wagner is also teaching her son how to garden at an young age. "Hi Ho Hi Ho. Heading out to weed the garden with the Cobrahead!"

From Kelly Wagner, "Quackgrass, be gone! Showing my son how to use the Cobrahead to dig out quackgrass rhizomes."

From Ron Hanes, "We LOVE our CobraHeads! We HAD to get two CobraHeads since my wife & I were always fighting over who would get to use the one we had. Now we have HIS and HERS!"

Mike Avila, who gardens in the Bay Area, says, "Resetting the paving stones outside my room door with my Cobrahead garden tool and of course pulling up the weeds that are growing in between. "


Gulland Forge Broadfork - Now Available from CobraHead

Tuesday, June 19th, 2012

Noel and the Gulland Forge Broadfork

Here’s me showing off my Gulland Forge Broadfork. CobraHead is pleased to announce that we are now selling this tool. It’s both a beautiful and functional tool, hand made by blacksmith Larry Cooper.

A broadfork is a tool that many vegetable growers depend on. The broadfork is used to break open, loosen, and aerate the soil of beds and garden plots, and prepare the ground for planting. It is not used as a tool to open up virgin hard packed soil that has not been cultivated previously. Not every gardener needs a broadfork, but if you’re serious about growing vegetables, this tool can make your life a lot easier.

The broadfork can also be used to assist harvesting of crops like potatoes and carrots. I use it as a weeding tool in my beds if they ever get overgrown It opens up a large area quickly and easily.

I was introduced to Larry Cooper’s Gulland Forge broadfork in April of 2010. I purchased one on the recommendation of a mutual acquaintance and I got to know Larry, who at the time was living in Wisconsin. The very first time I used the fork, I knew it was a special tool and I wrote about it here. And now we are selling it and we could not be happier.

Using the broadfork is physical, it is a large hand tool, but it is not difficult or taxing even for older and smaller people. I can completely loosen up the soil in one of my five foot by 20 foot raised beds in about 20 to 30 minutes.

A big advantage of a broadfork is that it does very little damage to the soil structure. It softens the soil without churning it and allows for deep penetration of roots.

The specific advantages of the Gulland Forge broadfork include its curved tines, which make it easier to work the tool into the ground than a broadfork with straight or kinked tines. It is lighter in weight than most broadforks. It weighs just over 14 pounds. And it is made to be easily repaired should anything ever break. It’s designed to be a lifetime tool.

If you have interest in a broadfork, do your shopping. When you’re ready for a Gulland Forge Broadfork, you can buy it here.